The Hakama (pleated trousers/skirt) and the Kataginu (pleated-front vest) worn together formed the Kamishimo, the traditional costume worn by the members of the samurai or warrior class during the Edo period in Japan (1615-1868). The two items would be worn over a knee length kimono for formal occasions.
Essentially, the Hakama is simply a large rectangle of fabric that is pleated to fit your body and therefore the pattern does not have a large rectangle pattern piece (waste of paper!). Instead, you are given a complete set of instructions for measuring, cutting, and pleating the traditional Hakama skirt/trousers in any size.
The pattern does include actual pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, the pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.
The wide-shoulder Kataginu can be made to match the Hakama for a traditional samurai appearance or as a contrasting wearable art accent. Easy to pleat and sew, it completes a dramatic outfit.
This is a paper pattern and the Hakama is sized for men to women based on waist size. The Kataginu is one size.
Kindly note that this is stated in metres. Fabric width of 45″ or 60″
Kataginu- 1.83 metres
Hakama (indicated by waist size):
Waist 22″-24″- 2.6 metres
Waist 26″- 28″- 3 metres
Waist 30″- 32″- 3.5 metres
Waist 34″- 36″- 4.2 metres
Waist 38″- 40″- 4.4 metres
Waist 42″- 44″- 4.8 metres
Waist 46″- 48″- 5.3 metres
For the Kataginu– Crisp, tightly woven cottons; linens and linen blends; ramie; hemp; silks, including shantung, habotae, pongee, satin, or taffeta. Note:You may have to starch fabric to preserve pleats. Light or medium-weight cotton, rayon, or silk.
For Hakama: Same as Kataginu, but also lightweight wool suiting.