We aim to explore the different types of African textiles in this project. The African continent is often referred to as one monolith. Some even reference it as though it was a country when in fact, it is a continent made up of 54 countries. Each with its own culture, language, ways and beliefs. Of course there is some overlap in these cultures, as the lines that separate countries were not developed organically.
This is also reflected in the fabric traditions across the continent which is what we will be looking at in the Glossary Project. Some fabric techniques are similar but with different aesthetic outcomes. Let us explore them! This will be an ongoing project that will be continuously developed as we learn more about the fabrics of different African countries. Do join us on this adventure by telling us your favourites, if you discovered something special on a trip, if you are a maker in one of these countries. Let’s build a body of work together.
We will look at one fabric with each update and for the sake of simplification, we will highlight the country or countries it is traditionally produced in, rather than where it might be purchased or worn. At the end, we will also have a pretty mapped representation of the variety of fabrics.
Adire pronounced (pronounced ah-d-reh) is the indigo dyed cloth made predominantly by Yoruba women in South-West Nigeria. The fabric is produced using a range of resist dye techniques ranging from folding tying and stitching the areas that will resist the dye, to the use of wax for the same purpose. Additional methods also include hand-painted or stenciled designs directly onto cloth. The word Adire is now used more generically to refer to various resist dye fabrics in Nigeria.
ASO-OKE
Aso-Oke (pronounced ah-SHOW-kay) is a hand woven cloth made mostly by the Yoruba tribe of south west Nigeria. Narrow strips are woven on wooden looms. The woven strips are sewn together along the selvedge to make clothing. The clothes would be worn for special occasions such as weddings, festivals, coronations.
The strips came in a range of widths, some as narrow as 7.5 cm (3 inches). However, more contemporarily, the are now much wider and the most common width is 17 cm (7 inches)
DABOYA/FUGU
Daboya is a region in Northern Ghana and is the home of a narrow strip cloth. Similar to other weaving traditions in West Africa, these strips are sewn together selvedge to selvedge to make clothing, the most popular of which is the Fugu which is a traditional smock mostly worn by men. The cloth is indigo dyed and 100% cotton, often with an indigo background with brighter coloured highlights.
Whilst the cotton used for the cloth is spun by the women, the cloth is woven by the men of the region. The strips are very narrow and are about 8/9 cm (3 to 3.5 inches) in width.
SHWESHWE
Shweshwe is a printed cotton fabric that is manufactured in South Africa. The often geometric designs are created using a weak acid solution to bleach out the motifs seen on the fabric. Originally, shweshwe was produced in two main colours indigo and brown but the range from (Three Cats- the original shweshwe brand) has expanded to include brighter and more varied colourways. It is a popular choice of fabric for wedding ceremonies in Southern Africa and has also found popularity with quilters worldwide but especially in North America.
One reply to “Types of African Textiles- The Glossary Project”
Elvie Rubio
I love your Glossary Project! I need to learn more about the various fabrics coming from Africa, who makes them, and the technique to produce them. I also love fabrics, and I am a hand weaver. My only wish would be for you to open a store in the United States.
I’m a Venezuelan living in Tallahassee, Florida, United States.
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Types of African Textiles- The Glossary Project
We aim to explore the different types of African textiles in this project. The African continent is often referred to as one monolith. Some even reference it as though it was a country when in fact, it is a continent made up of 54 countries. Each with its own culture, language, ways and beliefs. Of course there is some overlap in these cultures, as the lines that separate countries were not developed organically.
This is also reflected in the fabric traditions across the continent which is what we will be looking at in the Glossary Project. Some fabric techniques are similar but with different aesthetic outcomes. Let us explore them! This will be an ongoing project that will be continuously developed as we learn more about the fabrics of different African countries. Do join us on this adventure by telling us your favourites, if you discovered something special on a trip, if you are a maker in one of these countries. Let’s build a body of work together.
We will look at one fabric with each update and for the sake of simplification, we will highlight the country or countries it is traditionally produced in, rather than where it might be purchased or worn. At the end, we will also have a pretty mapped representation of the variety of fabrics.
The 54 African Countries
A – C
D – G
K – M
N – S
T – Z
The A to Z of African Textiles
ADIRE
Adire pronounced (pronounced ah-d-reh) is the indigo dyed cloth made predominantly by Yoruba women in South-West Nigeria. The fabric is produced using a range of resist dye techniques ranging from folding tying and stitching the areas that will resist the dye, to the use of wax for the same purpose. Additional methods also include hand-painted or stenciled designs directly onto cloth. The word Adire is now used more generically to refer to various resist dye fabrics in Nigeria.
ASO-OKE
Aso-Oke (pronounced ah-SHOW-kay) is a hand woven cloth made mostly by the Yoruba tribe of south west Nigeria. Narrow strips are woven on wooden looms. The woven strips are sewn together along the selvedge to make clothing. The clothes would be worn for special occasions such as weddings, festivals, coronations.
The strips came in a range of widths, some as narrow as 7.5 cm (3 inches). However, more contemporarily, the are now much wider and the most common width is 17 cm (7 inches)
DABOYA/FUGU
Daboya is a region in Northern Ghana and is the home of a narrow strip cloth. Similar to other weaving traditions in West Africa, these strips are sewn together selvedge to selvedge to make clothing, the most popular of which is the Fugu which is a traditional smock mostly worn by men. The cloth is indigo dyed and 100% cotton, often with an indigo background with brighter coloured highlights.
Whilst the cotton used for the cloth is spun by the women, the cloth is woven by the men of the region. The strips are very narrow and are about 8/9 cm (3 to 3.5 inches) in width.
SHWESHWE
Shweshwe is a printed cotton fabric that is manufactured in South Africa. The often geometric designs are created using a weak acid solution to bleach out the motifs seen on the fabric. Originally, shweshwe was produced in two main colours indigo and brown but the range from (Three Cats- the original shweshwe brand) has expanded to include brighter and more varied colourways. It is a popular choice of fabric for wedding ceremonies in Southern Africa and has also found popularity with quilters worldwide but especially in North America.
One reply to “Types of African Textiles- The Glossary Project”
Elvie Rubio
I love your Glossary Project! I need to learn more about the various fabrics coming from Africa, who makes them, and the technique to produce them. I also love fabrics, and I am a hand weaver. My only wish would be for you to open a store in the United States.
I’m a Venezuelan living in Tallahassee, Florida, United States.
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